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remaining fashionable in an unfashionable city surrounded by children and chickens....

what have i done?

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By deborahpb · August 25, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

first day of school.  she has been excited about it for a week.  last night she could not wait until morning.  planning out her wardrobe we had shopped AT THE MALL!!!  no less.  i despise that place.  no where to park, people are rude.  the shops i want to go are so spread out from one another.  blah blah blah.  she wanted to go!  i went.  abercrombie... sooooo loud, dark, filled with dumb kids that do not have a clue!  just leave us alone.  i will find it myself.  do not spray anymore of that s@#T on us, please!  i made her just slip it on over her clothes.  do not want to have to deal with a "sales-child" to UNLOCK a dressing room. let's get in and out, FAST!  then i needed the big abercrombie for shorts for boys.  less help until we get to the check out.  lay down 4 pairs of shorts for one of the two girls ignoring us behind the counter.  without even looking up one says and points  "she will take you over there."  another girls slips behind the counter as I PICK UP the shorts and move them down so she can ring me up.  seriously, if the boys were not so desperate for shorts.  i would have thrown them at the two girls that did not stop their conversation for a moment to help.  they are lucky they have a job!!!  they certainly do not deserve it!  i digress, as usual.  this morning was a fiasco.  she woke up before the alarm, but would not get up until the alarm had gone off.  then proceeded to dislike her choice of wardrobe.  BIG SURPRISE! too planned, too perfect.  well it all fell apart from there.  none of the shirts work with the skirt she is DETERMINED to wear.  the lavender hair extensions keep falling out.  she keeps brushing.  what does she expect???  four shirts later and she has to wear gym shoes, "what if it is gym?" she will get points taken off if she does not have laces!"  oh my!  the new shoes squeak!!!  she is so annoyed.  it would be funny if she was not so angry about it all.  they spelled her name wrong on all her school kit stickers.  all her stuff does not fit into her back pack.  she was crumbling.  i had to go upstairs and take deep breaths.  sean was there to save the day.  the boys left this morning without a single complaint.  i made connor put on a shirt that at least matched his shorts.  he was not thrilled, but he agreed.  girls are different or at least this one is. she is just like me!  how could i have made her be like this!!!??  she pulled it together.  she will have a great day!!!!

Just another day at the Barton House?!

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By deborahpb · July 16, 2010 · 0 Comments ·
What a day!  I spent the day cooking and baking what I consider a wonderful meal for a friend that just had a mastectomy.  Connor and I had at 3:30 just gone to the Madeira farmers market to get eggs and a few extra items so I could make the biscotti.  Sean and I  were supposed to go to yoga in Ault Park after delivery of the meal at 6:30.  Instead Connor was brought home by his brother and one of his good friends in obvious severe pain in his shoulder at 5:20.  Within minutes a giant hematoma appeared on his clavicle and it was obvious it was broken.  He just had his cast removed from his hand/wrist from a fracture last week that I believe should have been left on another week or two.  The swelling from that was still obvious and the re xray showed a cloud of new bone cell growth, but the fracture was still obvious.  Luckily, Sean was there.  He handles hospitals better than I.  I felt I should go since he managed the last one.  BUT I had all this food to finish and deliver.  I knew I could not tell him how to slice the biscotti and then bake it another ten minutes.  What a mess!!  Collin insisted on going.  He was amazing.  He came thru the door with his brother saying "Connor broke his clavicle!"  Not sure why I ever doubt him when he make such clear statements.  He is always right.  Suppose I just did not want to believe it.  We immediately sat him down got him a glass of water, put a bag of frozen edamame on the shoulder and waited for him to tell us it was okay!  Collin was on the computer, Henry was sitting dutifully near Connor watching his every move.  He knew his friend was really hurting.  Collin unbeknownst to me, I assumed he was on his facebook page.  He was looking up symptoms of broken collar bones.  Within minutes knew all the symptoms, dangers and how it is treated.  Needless to say he was more than helpful and I am very proud.  He was asking Connor questions about numbness and looking at the wound looking for the hematoma to darken.  When did this kid become an ER resident.  He tried to make a sling before they left, but we brushed him off feeling a sense of urgency to get him there due to the pain that was not lessening.  In case it was severe enough for surgery we would not allow him even any ibuprofen or the tylenol Collin was recommending.   Of course all they do is put you in a sling.  Luckily no surgery was necessary.  They gave him ibuprofen and a scrip for tylenol with codeine.  Funny, when he came through the door I was on the phone with a friend discussing a decision she had made about her son based on some safety concerns.  We were discussing what can happen in the " blink of an eye!"  This had to be one of the shortest ER visit i can ever remember.  One of the longest hours of my life I can remember?  Even when you know it is not life threatening you just feel their pain.  Three children and never a broken bone until this summer.  I am so LUCKY they are so HEALTHY and bones do fuse themselves back together... amazing!


why do i still feel so disturbed by the presentations of fashion on the runway? just breezed the fall couture 2010 shows.

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By deborahpb · July 10, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

what is couture?  seems the lines between pret-a-porter and haute couture have been extremely blurred.  everything on the valentino runway was childish.  my 11 year old would look cute in much of it when attending cotillion next year.  of course valentino himself has released the reigns to some designers i personally have never heard of.  chanel had some beautiful jackets and coats with simple mink trims.  very understated and beautifully cut, but couture, NO!!  perhaps the set lends itself to the term, but not the clothes.  jean-paul gaultier certainly had all the theatrics as did galliano designing for christian dior.  those flower dresses were right out of a cartoon dream.  i think of couture as clothes that cannot be duplicated, at least not with ease.  design, draping, beading that can only be done by the best designers and seamstress over MANY hours.  some of these will show up in FOREVER 21 by autumn 2010.  sad.

Valentino Fall 2010 Couture Christian Dior Fall 2010 Couture

converse. john varvatos.

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By deborahpb · June 30, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

not sure i mentioned any of the true fashionlessness going on in my life!  but i received my discharge from filing for bankruptcy for my boutique back in january.  i hate discussing it.  i hate that it ever happened.  i hate that i ever took on the store with a partner and then by myself.  i never had a dream of owning my own store.  never!  when i left lvmh 20 years ago i said "I WILL NEVER WORK IN RETAIL AGAIN!" sean reminded me of this many times.  desperate for something to call my own and to work and maybe even make some money i disregarded all my instincts and took on this endeavor.  no one knew the economy would tank?  you cannot blame yourself! blahblahblahblah!!!! hate it hate it hate it! shutupupshutup!  in case you cannot tell i am a little angry.  just when i think okay it has been discharged.  i had one of the worst experiences of my life.  never expecting it to be easy, but that judge was satan.  i do not believe in satan, but he was SATAN!  anyway, trying to move on and feel good about the fact that my credit is wrecked for the next 100 years i get a call out of the blue from some guy that sounds like "pussy" from "the sopranos."  jersey mafia guy calling for converse john varvatos.  i owe them money!!!!  i tell him i returned all the merchandise i did not sell and paid in full for what i did sell.  he says then why did they send it to me "a collection agency?"  i tell him my company went bankrupt he is not allowed to call me leave me alone. click!  i guess he keeps calling while i am out of town and gets sean.  i guess they were not included in the bankruptcy.  why would i.  i did not owe them anything.  i remember when that shipment arrived.  so different from the samples at market. fabrics were horrible blends i would never consider purchasing or wearing myself.  they were stitched together with plastic thread!  trina turk does this too. everything falls apart.  hideous!  all made in china.  i know some good merchandise comes out of china, but seriously, more often than not it sucks!!!!  mass produced cheap cheap cheap!!!  anyway i am back into fighting with this stupid creditor.  one week after i received the merchandised from converse all  of it was for sale on gilt.com  if you do not know this site.  check it out!  they sell current designer merchandise at typically 70% off retail.  everyone is desperate. you get some good deals.  can you imagine being a boutique owner and you have brand new merchandise and it is being sold already on a popular fashionista website for 70% off.  damn right i cannot blame myself!  i will not be buying anything converse john varvatos made in china crap ever again either. hence, i remain fashionless.

 

 

I have paid no attention to fashion...well i mean i have not read every vogue, elle, wwd, etc. in a while...

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By deborahpb · June 29, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

you cannot quit "living" it exactly?  can you?  i still pay attention to what i wear.  stare into the abyss off endless black/grey(my closet) and the chair that seems to have become my valet.  i used to hang it up, fold it up, clean it up?  do not bother to much anymore.  i scream at myself inside my head "pick something and just go with it!"  no one is going to f-ing notice what you wear anyway.  i think they might if i really quit caring?  or would they?  if i really showed up in something hideous(what would that be?) would anyone notice?  if i showed up in say, a romper, a loathsome article of clothing.  i have many times commented on the fact it is completely impractical.  what does one doe when one must PISS.  perhaps stick figures at parties in nyc never have to, piss!  if i showed up in a polyester walmart romper would anyone notice?  it could never happen because first, i would never go to walmart.  secondly, if i did somehow have a gun held to my head and i did buy the wretched item and did wear it.  maybe it was even worse and was one shoulder.  someone would notice.  they would have to.  i would be so openly uncomfortable in such a hideous garment.  the fabric scratching and trying to hold my bladder knowing the moment i go to the bathroom i have to release the entire outfit, which undoubtedly will fall to the floor or perhaps the back half of the one shoulder falls into the toilet as it plummets to the earth.  i think i need to pay a little attention.  so should the designers putting this sh@# out there.

 

the show was not worth mentioning, but just a little fyi, marc jacobs cheaper(ooh i do not think we use that word in fashion)

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By deborahpb · February 23, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

line "marc my marc jacobs" he was wearing pants again.  LONG BURN THE KILT!!!   do not get me wrong a kilt on the right man is perfectly acceptable, but this man in a skirt just became ridiculous.  cannot wait to see what he wears to the Louis Vuitton show in Paris...


Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

kilt burning at marc jacobs

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By deborahpb · February 19, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

wish i could have been there at the highly glossed table at the lvmh offices in paris(Jardin d'Acclimatation) where they sat him down and told him to create something they can sell.  if you have read any of my blogs in the past you know i find marc... hmmm... difficult to say without really bad words.  first of all i do not know how he got to this position.  never have seen the talent.  what he has become is a created BRAND.  when you are a brand you are owned by the corporation.  he has been given artistic license in the good economy years because the brand had such a halo around it anyone would buy it because the label read "marc jacobs."  did not matter that it looked like hell.  it was marc jacobs so it was good. now we are in a recession and my own demise in the retail world and knowing the industry to a degree tells me his last couple of collections have been less than stellar.   he(lvmh) was exploiting all of us through the good years, but he knew he could not keep doing his 80's bullshit.  he could not do just SHIT anymore.  he did not just reproduce lv from 2002.  but he did reproduce... classics from the past. nothing cutting edge.  nothing new.  no innovation.  he sure turned it around.  someone sure lit a fire under his little kilt and made some changes.  funny really.  i would wear some of it for sure. but because of the "kilt years"  i would have to remove the tag and say i bought it at a vintage store.  he is just a cog in the lvmh machine now.  this is proof.   actually, they did not just light a fire under his little  kilt.  they burned the kilt.  he is wearing pants.  poorly fit pants, but pants nonetheless... and that jacket, do not get me started.!!!
Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

 

all the little foxes...

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By deborahpb · February 19, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

what the hell!!!  in this economy!!  the show of opulence and disregard makes me want to puke!!!  michael kors must have killed 5000 foxes or more for that show, maybe more(note to self, ask Obama if the fur industry is going to save the economy?).  certainly many more by the time he rolls out the orders.  i do not know how many pelts it takes to make a fur coat, but that was disgusting.  i have never been a big advocate for peta OR for the clubbers of baby seals.  never purchased any fur myself.  have to admit i have a couple vintage pieces.   i just looked past the heavy use of fur in some of the other shows.  those were not the pieces i found interesting, but this is horrific.  i would like to see the amount of blood poured onto the runway that ran from those animals as they were dressed and skinned.  not really... but can you imagine!  i relish the moments i drive to the winter club at night to pick up my boys from hockey and on rare occasion i see a lovely fox cross the road.  i guarantee you i do not speed up to kill it so i can wear it dangling around my neck.  seeing that beautiful wild creature gives me connection to this earth.  i imagine it running home to feed and warm its kits.  plus the show was just a reapeat of what he always does and some of it quite beautiful i will admit.  stick to the sumptuous knits and sequined skirts otherwise... he should go hide under the mountain of carcasses.

I made the mistake of looking at it again.  I found a critiquing page here is "part" of what i wrote:

if this is what you we refer to as an "all american" designer i want to move to another country. WE ARE IN A RECESSION you freaking idiots. i love clothes and follow all the shows. i will never ever buy anything michael kors again as long as i live.   exceedingly  poor taste... not to mention nothing new.  same designs same highly rouged cheeks just more fox trim and more and more and more...

the costume instutute theme this year will be American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity,  Michael is expected to be highly regarded.  again... i want to vomit.

Michael Kors Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Michael Kors Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

still love gary graham... when i take connor to nyc i will have to drag him into the store. he is always agreeable. fashion is

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By deborahpb · February 4, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

not connor's "thing" but he will like the experience and he will go because he LOVES ME!  i still do not own any piece of this designers collections, but have loved him for several years.   i think i may have mentioned in a long ago blog i would have loved to have brought his designs to cincinnati.  i saw the his designs for the first time(never heard of him) at market when i was buying for twist several years ago.  now he is a cfda finalist.  i would be even more bankrupt, but there would be a few people in some really amazing clothes walking around this nearly fashionless city.  he is american, imagine that.  he uses beautiful fabrics adds a little funk to a hint of vintage... really beautiful.  
Pre-Fashion-Week-2010-Gary-Graham-19

some of the new PRE-Fall 2010 collections have some really beautiful pieces... where were they for 2009

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By deborahpb · February 2, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

i was so discouraged by the fall collections and completely gave up on what is coming in for spring 2010.  the fact that the designers now for the past few years do "pre" collections is indicative of the desperation in the retail world.  looks like the designers are giving up the armor and studs and coming back to the beauty i was personally starved for.  here are a couple of alberta ferretti pieces out of the small edited collections(as it should be) that are truly worthy.


Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2010 Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2010

i have these 4 hens living in a makeshift children's playhouse. started with 6 as a birthday gift "for me...

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By deborahpb · January 31, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

just what i always wanted"  they had just been hatched the children were 6.4 and 2.  i assumed they might last a couple weeks.  here we are nearly 8 years later.  the last of the original "girls" died over the summer.   the remaining are from skyler's third grade class.  it is a project... every third grade class has to hatch chicks.  they learn about the process.  simpler with chickens than humans.  they really just discuss the egg itself.  BTW... you do not have to have a male(rooster) to produce eggs.  the eggs from the grocery and the eggs from my backyard are produced without the COCK.  difficult to know the sex of the chickens at an early age.  when the seven(i had agreed to four) third grade chickens arrived we were unaware of their sex.  within a month it is was quite evident we had two boistrous roosters.  the ordinance in terrace park does not allow for "poultry noise."  they had to go,  for more reasons than noise.   four a.m. cockadoodledooing, poor "girls" being chased.  poor "anything" living that moved.... sound familar?  we put them on craigslist.com of all things.  next day creepy farmer guy came and picked them up by their feet and stuffed them in the trunk of his car.  i felt a pang of guilt, but it was too late and i was not going to make chicken soup or release them into the wild.  skyler of course was there to witness the event.  she has a knack for seeing the gruesome events of our suburban farm life.  "what was he going to do with them mommy?"  definitely not what he had told sean on the phone, but the wild humping creatures were gone so there was relief.  i think i have completely digressed from my original intent of the writing.  We have had chickens in our backyard for eight years. every winter they nearly stop laying.  i squeamishly find myself in the egg aisle at the grocery purchasing eggs from i have no idea where.  once you have grown accustomed to fresh eggs you really recognize a difference.  anyway, after all these years, dan george's wise mother says put a light on a timer in the coop and they will lay again.   three a.m. light goes on... sure enough... two eggs a day without fail.   makes it worth going out in the twenty degree weather to feed and water them.  every winter i secretly hope i will find them frozen.  my understanding is that with hypothermia you simply go to sleep... it is not that painful? now they have purpose again.  i do enjoy seeing them run around the yard on a cold SUNNY day, but the eggs are what make it really worthwhile.

 

 

blue plate mayonnaise chocolate cake recipe attempts... delicious in chicken salad

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By deborahpb · January 31, 2010 · 0 Comments ·

 

connor and i were trying to make the Blue Plate mayonnaise cake.  batter seemed a little thin and only seemed enough to half way fill one 9 inch round cake pan. tasted the batter.  tasted good.  within fifteen minutes of being in the oven a severe burning smell was exuding from the kitchen.  cakes normally take 30-35 minutes for that size.  this cake was completely boiling over like lava and everything on the bottom of the oven was burning.  i scraped off the remaining bits on the pan and removed what i could from the oven.  stuck it back in.  thinking i might salvage it with another 10 minutes.  mount vesuvius just continued.  turned off the oven took it out.  let it cool.  kids got out spoons and gave it a try.  nothing that would ever require a knife.  no resemblance to a cake what so ever.  what we did encounter was an amazing chocolate lava pudding.  it really is outstanding.  i kept leaving the room and helping skyler with homework only to return for another spoon of chocolate decadence.  it occurred to me to review the simple recipe.  how could i have gone so wrong.  definitely sweet from sugar, definitely baking soda, thus the lava effect, definitely Blue Plate mayonnaise, that was the whole point in making it.  i did however realize i had skipped one VERY key ingredient when making cake versus pudding.  i had forgotten two cups of flour!!  the good news is we found a way to make an amazing chocolate pudding souffle(must be put into a baking dish with MUCH higher sides).  knowing it is not a complete flop we will definitely have another go at it, avec flour.

connor just told me that when he graduates from culinary school and someone asks him what his favorite moment has been in the kitchen he is sure this will be the story he tells.

i think if you are going to make any purchases this fall it should be for truly classic quality design and fabrics

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By deborahpb · October 26, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

this adam lippes dress is a great example... i think.


ADAM
Metallic tweed dress

shows are finally over... paris did not come through either!

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By deborahpb · October 12, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

what a disappointment when everyone is feeling the fashion industry is desperate to recharge.  the shows fell very short, or perhaps too long.  so many pieces were presented.  most of it did not make sense.  where was the careful editing?  where was the beautiful creative story told in the collections?  i could not find it.  the designers sent out confusing arrays of everything that could possibly,  perhaps, maybe,  catch the eye of any buyer in the front row or beyond.  it was sheer desperation.  no doubt the fashion houses remain with their abilities to tailor, cut, DRAPE and design, but not in a way that is going to make get women to start buying again.  who knows!  the watered down versions that show up in the department stores and boutiques is often a far cry from the runway.  with the state of things at this moment let us hope that is definitely the case for spring 2010.  

disaster at balmain. has the fashion world gone crazy?

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By deborahpb · October 2, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

Balmain Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear

i have not looked at shows for two days. now they have started in milan. no doubt i will have to peak at several... usually a

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By deborahpb · September 25, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

guaranteed improvement from new york and london.  one thing i have been watching daily or weekly as i always do is  a blog have enjoyed since its inception.  he has calmed me.  he always finds beautifully put together people.  i think he is a great photographer and what he presents is always something of great quality.  definitely check it out.

www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com

     

cannot help myself!! really was not going to look at the shows today, but i kept getting emails with charming little titles

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By deborahpb · September 23, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

enticing me to just glance.  addiction is horrible.  specifically when the drug is really UGLY.  i thought perhaps burberry prorsum which has not disappointed the last two seasons might be worth glancing.   NO!!!!  mummy wrapped mini skirts that looked like expertly draped diapers.  who?? really??  exaggerated shoulders that made the models look like they had three heads.  my ten year old daughter felt sorry for" the pretty girls that had to walk in those shoes and diapers".  we called one of the few pastel furs the "lavender gorilla".  another was mummified in the color of a long dead rose.  models were gorgeous, but no one could walk the walk that could ever make this collection look wearable unless you were lying in a carsophagus.  great for halloween not for spring 2010.

quote from a friend typically in agreement with my fashion aesthetic... and still is... or i would not quote her...

"Absolutely despicable! I cannot believe my eyes.

It’s as if the designers have all gone on the same bad acid trip and have come out on the other side believing gigantic shoulders, legs on stilts, and crumpled up wads of trash are somehow fashionable.   

Don’t get me wrong, the stuff would rock in a sci-fi movie…but everyday life?  Give me a break.  Most people are just trying to meet their monthly bills; I don’t know anybody who wants to look like the bride of Frankenstein on meth."

 

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010 Ready-to-WearBurberry Prorsum Spring 2010 Ready-to-WearBurberry Prorsum Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear

 

  

it is just over!! everyone will have to just shop out of their own closets next spring i had to delete marc jacobs i must have

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By deborahpb · September 22, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

been severely intoxicated when i made a kind remark concerning any of his design.  what is showing up in london is far worse.  i cannot find anything worth posting from these shows and the previous looks are a desperate attempt to find anything good from the wrecking pile.  even dame vivienne westwood one of my typical go-to seemed... cannot put my finger on the word, but it was not impressive.  edit that later.  perhaps i expect too much.  not sure why i continue to scour the shows anyway.  no longer own a boutique.  completely disenchanted with the retail industry in general.  i have simply become weary of fashion.  who cares? good fitting jeans, a great shoe/boot/flip-flop and a weather appropriate shirt and jacket is simple enough.  we can only hope milan and paris can create some sort of miracle at this point.  i swear i am not going to look.... well maybe at dries.

lela rose created some easy to wear pieces. definitely cardigans and jackets. cute skirts, but lose that flippy-flappy thing.

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By deborahpb · September 14, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

 

spring 2010 ready-to-wear

Lela Rose

that is a beautiful shirtdress! rachel roy had some lovely things minus some bubbly skirts. what woman wants

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By deborahpb · September 14, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

to add width to her hips??? 

spring 2010 ready-to-wear

Rachel Roy

i am looking at the dvf show and i see this and i am thinking what an awful outfit and that model is hideous...

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By deborahpb · September 14, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

how can you make coco rocha look like this?  you have to work hard to make her look so ugly.  believe me there was nothing of merit in the show.  karlie kloss and several other top models looked horrible from hair and makeup to the hideous clothes they had to wear.  sad!

Diane von Furstenberg Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear

i like blue and i like butterflies... thought this was very feminine pretty... some of the printed silks were nice too.

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By deborahpb · September 13, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

Vivienne Tam Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wearvivienne tam

i put several looks from chado ralph rucci in my lookbook. very lady like. more sophisticated than me, but wow some -

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By deborahpb · September 13, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

beautifully cut pieces.  

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear

critics said it was wearable but not "exciting" on the runway... i thought nearly every piece was easy and wonderful.

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By deborahpb · September 13, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

ADAM Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear

not as much to love as i usually find in his collections. "beautiful rot, indeed"? not sure about that?

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By deborahpb · September 12, 2009 · 0 Comments ·

Gary Graham

NEW YORK, September 11, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Think you're having a busy week? Fashion Fund finalist Gary Graham shot his lookbook on Friday. On Thursday he opened his new Tribeca flagship for Fashion's Night Out. (Theo Kogan performed.) And the day before that he was photographed for Vogue with Sasha Pivovarova. "To see your favorite model in your clothes is a dream come true," he said at the end of the hectic week, still walking on air.

Despite the seeming suddenness of his success, Graham has actually been in business for almost ten years, and the collection had a maturity and quiet confidence that can only come from experience. Graham has, obviously, found his voice by now, but he remains excited and challenged by his craft. This season he expanded his universe by adding a frisson of S-E-X to his rustic (by way of Disfarmer and Walker Evans) leanings. "I love anything Victorian—petticoats, corsets, that covered-up feeling," he said. "But I'm trying to be less literal and more relaxed about the details, so I can bring them to a new customer." Well, there should be plenty of those. And—with both Nancy Spungen and Lillian Gish on his inspiration board—they'll be a diverse lot, too.

A grunge-y distressed-flannel print and some "grandpa" suits with off-kilter waistlines and outsize proportions (described by Graham as having a Bukowski Barfly edge) added a tomboy counterpoint to the romantic embroidered and beaded pieces, some of which were inspired by old sheets and bedspreads. But nothing was too pretty. Graham's work always has a Miss Havisham quality to it—as evidenced here by shredded details, an eighteenth-century floral fabric "rubbed out" with bleach, and a bustier that looked like it had been torn off a decaying gown. Beautiful rot, indeed.

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